Author Archive | Gareth Morgan

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Ciao Korea

And so another piece of our global motorcycle jigsaw puzzle is in place, the bikes are surrendered and we leave tomorrow. This 3,500 km trip has been fun and we take away very fond memories of the ROK and its people. What are the main impressions? That we got back to Itaewon, the European suburb […]

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Trying to Penetrate the DMZ

We’ve spent two days now riding along the razor wired southern boundary of the DMZ from the east coast back toward Seoul. Past the rest of the tunnels bored by the North Koreans and past the shot out Labour Party Headquarters where hundreds were tortured and executed during those dark days of occupation. The presence […]

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808 Steps in 45 Minutes

That’s how the climb up Ulsanbawi, the most famous rock outcrop in Seoraksan the most famous National Park in South Korea is billed. Can’t say we were looking forward to the challenge but if this biking and hiking tour of the ROK is to be complete then the climb is a ‘must do’ pinnacle of […]

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Nuclear Test Divides Opinion

What a weird feeling walking through a Korean town and having a meal. Today’s nuclear test by the DPRK has sent shockwaves through South Korea and in the reaction within small provincial town of Inje where we are – not far south of the DMZ – I’m guessing is typical. As the obligatory television sets […]

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Smog or Nuclear Fallout?

As we head back to the northweast corner of South Korea today, a highlight of our journey looms – the visit to Soraksan National Park and the last of our hiking torture. But two things make me suspicious; (a) The autumn colours seem to far more accentuated today than on previous days (b) this is the […]

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Chusok

It’s the annual homecoming festive season of “Chosuk” when Koreans head back to the small family communities that are their roots. From home and abroad they converge on the little villages and farms that are where they originate from. There are the burial mounds of their ancestors are located and Chosuk sees all the family […]

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Another ‘Bike and Hike’ Day

Dave you don’t know what you’re missing, we’re getting disgustingly fit, mixing mountain hikes with a motorcycle ride. They certainly make for an exhausted team at the end of the day but by abandoning the bikes and taking to the slopes we get another perspective on the history of the place as well as having […]

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Oh No, Not Another Hiking Day

Another mountain, another National Park. This time, another with Sharman origins (reminding us of our visit to Penis Park earlier in the tour), Chilgapsan provided just too many mountain trails for us to contemplate with our knees still in a fragile state left from the hikes to date. So instead we opted for a lunch […]

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Dynastic Capitals

Gonjiu and Buyo, two cities in the west of South Korea are capitals of the Baekje Dynasty, one of the dynasties along with Shilla and Goguryeo during the Three Kingdoms Period. Visiting tombs and fortresses of this period – from 50BC to 700 AD – one gets an appreciation of how revered this period is […]

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