The Wall St Journal: Motorcyclists Ride Through North-South Border

A group of five New Zealanders crossed over from North Korea into the South on motorcycles late last week, possibly becoming the first foreign tourists ever to have crossed the border since the foundation of the two Koreas 65 years ago.

Reuters
Gareth Morgan, from New Zealand, speaks to the media after arriving at the Customs, Immigration and Quarantine office, just south of the demilitarized zone separating the two Koreas, in Paju, north of Seoul August 29, 2013.

The border drawn during the 1953 armistice is the most heavily-militarized in the world, and the crossing of what is technically still a war zone has been off-limits for foreigners. Those hoping to visit both countries in tandem have had to travel either via Japan or China. Koreans wanting to cross the border must have approval from both governments.

It took almost six years of discussions with North Korean authorities before they finally agreed to let the team travel through the country, says Gareth Morgan, who is leading the team of motorcyclists on a 40,000-kilometer journey from east Russia to New Zealand.

According to Mr. Morgan, when he met with officials in Pyongyang in June 2012 seeking permission to ride through the country, the authorities went from being hesitant to letting the group ride beyond Pyongyang to suggesting crossing the border.

“They said, ‘It hasn’t been done before but we would support you,’” said Mr. Morgan.

A journey through the border drawn up at the end of the Korean War in 1953 must be authorized by North Korea and the United Nations Command, the command structure for military forces from South Korea, the U.S. and other allies.

He said the team received permission to cross into South Korea in late-2012 from then-President Lee Myung-bak’s office and the United Nations Command.

“(North Korea) looked like China under Deng Xiaoping,” said Mr. Morgan, referring to China’s former leader that led the country toward a market economy.  He said he saw “immaculate” villages with “very organized labor” and construction of roads and bridges throughout the country.

A motorcade that included refueling trucks and minders accompanied the group of five New Zealanders throughout their journey in the North, he said.

Mr. Gareth’s accounts provide a rare peek into the secluded state of North Korea, which has been only open to those on restricted guided tours led by local minders.

South Korea’s foreign ministry declined to comment. The United Nations Command spokesman couldn’t provide an immediate comment.

The Korean part of the motorcycle expedition ends in two weeks.

CORRECTION: The two Koreas were founded 65 years ago. An earlier version of this post incorrectly said they were founded 60 years ago.

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