The most famous building before the 1942 battle of Stalingrad was the city’s Department Store (think Kircaldie & Stains). It was a showcase for The Soviets new economic model. As you can see the building was pretty flash. Today we spent a bit of time in the basement of the old Univermag Dept Store located […]
Author Archive | Gareth Morgan
A Ride in the Black Forest
Well no, we’re not in Bavaria, but sadly it’s been a Black Forest day in Portugal for us. Remember the news items in June and October 2017 that told us about these massive forest fires in Portugal and Spain that were fanned by hurricane winds and which killed more 100 people – 45 of them […]
Gibraltar Calling
It’s only 8 miles across but the transformation from Africa to Europe is far wider – politically, economically, religiously and socially. Nowhere is this more dramatically demonstrated than from the most proximate points – Morocco and Spain. It’s hard to believe that half of the world’s shipping passes through this entrance to the Med, but […]
Riding the Atlas
There’s always a conflict on these long epic-type motorcycle rides. You’re on the bike day in, day out for 3-6 months and so the need to manage risk, get to the end of each day without gear or body broken is simple common sense. But on the other hand, as we ride through each region, […]
Volubilis – Ruined by the Romans
I remember during our 2007 ‘Under African Skies’ ride from Capetown to London, crossing Libya. It was Gaddafi’s time and well before his ignominious end. So Bengazi and Sirte were just two more towns that we overnighted in. And then of course all hell broke loose with the Arab Spring, Gaddafi hit the dust and […]
Morocco’s Marijuana Capital
It’s not legal but it’s a roaring business in Morocco; Cannabis cultivation is a significant contributor to the (illegal) exports and to the tourism trade. Indeed the penalty for being caught with it is ten years in prison. However, tourists are frequently let off with only a fine due to Morocco’s need for the tourism […]
Morocco: Before and After
As our ride around Morocco comes to close it’s interesting to separate my “mind’s eye” preconception of what the country would be like from the impression after a few weeks here. Firstly I though it was all desert and that’s totally wrong. Like NZ the central mountain range makes all the difference. In this case […]
Atlas Mountain Murmurings
We’re high in the Atlas Mountains where the days are 28 degrees and the nights a chilly 6. The supply of accommodation is plentiful thanks to the same mania that has swept New Zealand. Online booking has provided a massive economic boost to these remote villages who until now have survived by growing crops for […]
Creating Chaos in Casablanca
We heard the Moroccans love bargaining so Joanne decided to put that reputation to the test. She offered the cab driver half the price he quoted (we knew it was 20 times the going rate btw). He refused, came down 10% but that was it. So she walked along the row of them & the […]
On the Road Again
Just as well we decided against heading further south from Agadir ! We’d been warned that Casablanca Customs would prove a challenge, that extricating our bikes from them would be no trivial pursuit. And so it has proved – after 3 solid days in their queues at the container port we’re finally on the road. […]