You have to see it to believe it. Here we are at the home of Rome’s African citadels of Cyrena, Apollonia and Leptis Magna and all you can see is trash. The latest conquerors of Libya – following on from the Greeks, the Romans, the Turks, the Byzantines, the Spanish and the Italians – are the Arabs. The legacy from this cacophony of conquests is that the cultures of the native Libyan tribes have all but disappeared. Gaddaffi’s Libya isn’t an attractive place – in fact it’s one big rubbish tip. Kiwis would find it hard to believe people can live amidst their own waste like this. If you want to see the best examples of Roman remains you need to visit soon – they’re about to disappear under a sea of Arab rubbish and the Libyan Department of Antiquities is a joke – it’s concerned mainly about promoting the little green book of that pathological egotist Gaddaffi’s thoughts! Independent travellers need not bother – guides are compulsory and expensive – it’s a rort.