We swoop and lean around the mountain roads. Tight corners make me crave the Ducati from home and then we come across a battalion of tanks and soldiers across the road and I’m glad to be doing 80 rather than 150 km/hour, so I can stop in time. Brendan has found lines on the map that turn to narrow rocky tracks, we even had to backtrack when we got to gates and the military “explosives” squad told us the road is closed. Frankly I was relieved to turn around as the boulders were not what our “NEW Hyosung 650 bikes were designed for. Trail riding in the Harley “legs forward ” position is challenging (probably only for girls). This is a country of mountains and passes, not particularly high but the great roading does make it riding heaven. We don’t want to stop at the end of the day. Maybe it is partly due to the thought of the hard floor, thin mattress (yo) or the diet that we (Gareth and I) have grown to love but Brendan and Dave are still persevering with spicy pickled cabbage, chillied squid and seaweed soup. This is for the three meals each day. We have assured them they will crave these flavours after a week or two.