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Sojourn in Stalingrad

The most famous building before the 1942 battle of Stalingrad was the city’s Department Store (think Kircaldie & Stains). It was a showcase for The Soviets new economic model. As you can see the building was pretty flash. Today we spent a bit of time in the basement of the old Univermag Dept Store located […]

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Back to the Motherland

So begins our 3rd bike motorcycle ride in Russia. We’ve ridden both edges of this massive country the north to south and now we get to ride across it. So nice to be back and despite a bit of a laborious border crossing from Georgia, once in Vladikavkaz (capital of North Ossetia) the hospitality was […]

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Bye Georgia

Tomorrow we bid our final farewell to Georgia, crossing into Russia for the big haul eastwards. Georgia has been a blast- not a single rainy night, the only train we encountered was Stalin’s and that wasn’t at midnight, but the country will long remain on my mind as being on a bold journey to break […]

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Taste of Azerbaijan

The first country to sample on this leg of our never ending world-by-bike motorcycling traverse has been Azerbaijan. Despite a corrupt road police force the people have been absolutely marvellous – friendly and welcoming – and most humbling, so many have refused to take any money for services rendered. Nobody will accept our ‘keep-the-change’ and […]

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Yaa hoo Baku

In contrast to the rest of Azerbaijan, the capital city Baku is as modern as any city and demonstrates all the glitz befitting an oil kingdom. From the abundance of Maserattis, to the Paris-meets-Dubai architecture, through to the proliferation of restaurants and bars it is difficult to reconcile the Azerbaijan’s capital with the dirt poor […]

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Azeri cops

Spent too much of today playing cat and mouse games with Azeri cops. Four cars of them in total trying to pick out the tourist amongst the traffic for a misdemeanour they could extract a bribe for. We were down to 20kph at times with one cop car tailgating us and another in front. Their […]

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A Fine Day

Well it started out like that but ended up being a day of fines. Despite there not being a cloud in the sky Georgian Customs managed to rain on our parade by fining us NZ$500 per bike for “overstaying”. Spread over the 10 months we’d left our bikes parked up in Tbilisi since the end […]

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In Dublin’s Fair City …

In Dublin’s Fair City … .. where the construction cranes are so pretty. The Irish republic is having a fair economic boom right now, with economic growth on a par with that of China. Difference is that Irish GDP per capita puts it amongst the richest seven countries in the world (as is Norway) – […]

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